painting guide (minis)

redwing

First Post
I am new to the mini painting world and am now looking over the painting guide at reapermini.com. Is there a better guide out there? How do you highlight? When they use blacklining, do you still use a brush? I bet a toothpick would be easier. and when you drybrush you get the paint on the brush, brush on paper till most of it's gone and then ?? (do you blotch it on the mini or gentle strokes, like normal?)

As for glazing, is it just like wash except more of the base color so that it's not so thin as to run into creases?
 

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Painting miniatures website(s)

The best site to go to is:
http://miniature-painting.net/links_painting.html

From here, you will find numerous sites that have tips ranging from how to prime your miniatures all the way up to tricking-out techniques. They can answer questions about highlighting and so forth, and of course some people do things differently.

Still being something of a novice, I will leave people who are more experienced than me to answer most of your questions. However, the one thing I can answer is your question about drybrushing. To me, if you learn how to do one technique (and do it well), drybrushing is the most important because it is used so much (again, other painters may differ). Basically, get some paint on the end of your brush and then blot it or wipe it until you can get *almost* get no more paint to come off the brush. This almost is key. When in doubt, keep wiping or blotting the brush. Then, just brush or "blotch" the area of the miniature you want to paint.

The best example I can think of in using this technique is painting chainmail on a fig, e.g., I will prime an orc warrior with black primer, then when it comes time to do the chainmail armor, I will pick a metallic paint and use drybrushing so it just highlights the chain links and leaves the tiny spaces between the links black. Other people might use washes to fill in the holes with black or some other color.

Collin
 

A toothpick's no good for painting anything - the tip isn't flexible, it won't fit into small crevices, the paint won't flow off of it properly, and a semi-decent brush will come to a much finer, more controllable tip. If you try to blackline your figure using a toothpick, all you'll do is mar the existing paint job with big, crude black streaks (he says, fondly remembering the old TSR minis that he ruined thusly long ago). No, it's down to a smaller brush and a little practice. Games Workshop sells a good starter set that comes with (from smallest to largest) a detail brush, a standard brush, and a brush for drybrushing. Other company's sell pre-packaged sets as well, but I'd guess the GW set is most likely to be at your FLGS's shelf. Make sure that you thin the black paint a little on a pallet, and it should go pretty much where you want it to.

For drybrushing, you get some paint on your brush, and then brush it onto a rag or paper towel until there appears to be no paint left. Then, using light, quick strokes, brush back and forth over the area to be highlighted. A good way to practice this is to paint an old miniature entirely black. Then, drybrush white over the top of it. This'll let you get a feel for how much paint you need and how lightly you need to brush it on. I recommend having a brush just for this purpose - a brush that's on drybrush duty soon becomes unsuitable for anything else as the tip curls and frays from the rough treatment. Also, when removing paint from the brush or applying paint, use brushing motions rather than "splotching" - splotching will kill the bristles even faster than drybrushing will. Hope this helps!
 



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