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I always paint the face first, due to my style. As for the eyes, is you used black primer, paint the non-lid portion of the eye with thinned white, like Reaper white brush on primer, or just thinner white paint, until you cannot see black (if doing eyes first) or the facial colors (if painting...

I'm gonna have one deuce of a time getting the GM to allow it; he despises anything non-canon, and even then bans tons of stuff. I was merely making a gripe, wondering why WotC "forgot" to put this in their books, since they did put in the lower and higher powered versions. Maybe someone at WotC...

OK, in the DMG you have Flaming, Icy, etc... auras, as well as bursting. In Magic of Faerun you have Elemental Aura (all elements on same weapon in one spell, each must acxtivate seperate), and in the Epic HB you have Blasting weapons. including Elemental Blasting (all 5 in one). My question is...

OK, don't everyone chime in at once...

Like I said... 3M Safest Strip. I tried brake fluid, and it doesn't work for crap compared to this... and Safest Strip is Non-Toxic!

Best paint stripper Try to get some 3M Safest Strip. This is a semi-paste stripper with the consistency of a lotion. Apply with a toothbrush, place on a paper plate, and cover. Wait @ 30 mins, and check it. If the paint seems to be loosened, go ahead and scrub it with the toothbrush, rinsing...

Under the Dragoncraft Items section, the subsection dealing with Dragonfang Weapons states that the weight is 2lbs. However, this does not follow into the Magic Items:Weapons section, where the Longspear is described as 9 lbs. and the Greatsword is described as 15 lbs. Since bone (including...

I agree with John Q.; I miss the level names (some of them) but not the actual class names too much. I do disagree with the difference between Warrior and Fighter. "Warrior" implies someone who is a professional warrior, whether soldier, mercenary, adventurer, or what not. "Fighter" implies more...

Pin Vise/Drill set Jon, I can get a great set WITH @ 10-12 bits (can't remember which) for @ $12.00 + tax. $20 is what you'd pay at a hobby store. If you want, I can pick one up and mail it to you, no extra fees. I'll go price one and send you a figure, if you'd like. My email is...

I can't use a dremel for the fine work, because it is just way too uncontrollable. The blasted thing tends to skip and jump all over, gouging the crap out of the details. I honestly prefer the pin vise, and I use a wide selection of needle files for my smoothing. *Sleep, what's that? Twitch...

Semi off-topic If anyone wants to see the results I get on my work with the paints I described, check out the art gallery. All of the pics under Last Additions are mine, as well as a few others. Let me know what you think (please vote!)

Slorak, no, I meant that some of the positions you need to get the drill bits into can be more than a bit of a PITA. Plus, from my own experiences, if you have ANY sort of damage to your hands, be it joint injuries, tendon damage, arthritis, etc... the pain becomes literal rather than...

Very true... wait til he gets into the deep conversions... drilling the holes for the tiny wires is a pain in the butt...

I have issues with their crappy solution... you either get colorted water that they call paint., or you get seperated sludge from a shipment that got frozen! lol And they cost far too much...

Slorak True, true... I just figured that using the existing metal would be somewhat easier for the novice converter to do, as opposed to a complete rework. When I teach, I tend to save the more severe conversions for the advanced lessons.

hailro I never said the Citadel primer was bad, just way overpriced. It's their miniature paints that leave so much to be desired.

An Idea Rather than lopping off the entire staff, why not just lop off the ends, size-match a drill bit to the shaft, then drill holes with that bit in the undersides of the axe-heads? I've done this before, and it works quite well. I would have gone through a local hobby store or hardware...

Well, I based my research on actual size comparisons of 1:48 and 1:72 scale model kit figures compared side by side with actual 15-28mm miniatures. The 15-20mm range almost always comes out to 1:72 scale, and the 25mm range ALWAYS comes out to 1:48 scale. I'm not talking about the tanks...

What about more reader input? If I remember correctly, wasn't there a policy in effect for the reading public to submit ideas back in the days before TSR canned Dragon? I think it would be a good idea to reinstitute this, in effect giving the readers a voice, more than just a Q&A session from...

Holy crap! Thotas, I LIKE IT!!!!! Maybe we can co-op on some work, or do a work swap. I have a buttload-o-characters that need artwork, but my drawing sucks. I'm willing to swap paintwork for inkwork (IF you have need of any professional miniature painting, that is.) Check out the public...