Teflonknight
Explorer
That figure finder at Reaper is cool. Thanks for help and keep putting out great painted models.
pogre's model and figure thread
- Thread starter pogre
- Start date
pogre
Legend
Rise of the Runelords
Justice Ironbriar
This miniature does not resemble the illustration in the Anniversary Edition at all. I can only assume the sculpt was based on an earlier illustration. I did a lot of funky things with this mini, and it was fun to paint.
98 models in 2012.
Justice Ironbriar
This miniature does not resemble the illustration in the Anniversary Edition at all. I can only assume the sculpt was based on an earlier illustration. I did a lot of funky things with this mini, and it was fun to paint.
98 models in 2012.
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pogre
Legend
Miniature 100 in 2012 is the apex villain of the Rise of the Runelord Adventure Path - the runelord Karzoug. I have pretty much non-stop gaming scheduled for the next couple of days, so it is unlikely I will get any more done this year. 100 is a very good output for me and I will be pleased if I can match it or better it in 2013!
Rise of the Runelords
Runelord Karzoug
An illustration of Karzoug is found on page 363 of the Rise of the Runelords Anniversary edition.
100 models in 2012.
Rise of the Runelords
Runelord Karzoug
An illustration of Karzoug is found on page 363 of the Rise of the Runelords Anniversary edition.
100 models in 2012.
pogre
Legend
I wish it was dry brush. The photos just reveal every stinking brush stroke. I don't use dry brushing, just layering. My blending needs a lot of work to get smoother.
Thanks for the compliments!
pogre
Legend
Reaper Townsfolk Bar Maid
Step-by-step
PART ONE
==========================
As promised here is a step-by-step on how I approach painting. Even after all of these years I'm still learning, but maybe you can pick up something you want to try.
I selected this miniature because it is something I have been meaning to paint for some time. Also, as many of you have picked up the Reaper Bones Kickstarter - it is one of the townsfolk sculpts included in your package.
Prior to painting I decide what level of paint job I am going to give a figure. For this figure, I am going for high tabletop standard. Far superior to any pre-paint you could purchase, but easily accomplished in an evening's work. It will take me longer because I am going step-by-step. Remember, those show quality miniatures take hours and hours - for example Alexi Z. takes around 30 hours per miniature. We don't want to put in that kind of time - we want to play with our minis!
I will cover some speed painting techniques later this year and some other short-cuts, but this figure's step-by-step will give you a base sense of how I paint.
==========================
PREPARATION
This is a metal miniature, so keep in mind your bones will be slightly different.
I quickly scrape and file down mold lines, etc. I cut away the broccoli base and remount the figure. For this model I created
some boards out of greenstuff that will represent the floor of a tavern when I'm done. If you were working for showpiece quality you would take much longer with this process - including using some miliputty paste to fill in flaws on the figure.
I wash the figure with an old toothbrush and a bit of soap.
I prime it black with dupli-color sandable primer. You can pick it up at any auto parts store.
I mount the figure on a large cork using double sided poster mount tape. This is the last time my hands will touch the actual miniature until I am done painting. Your hands and skin oil can do a lot of damage to your paint. That's why you should consider mounting your figures. Plus, it's a heck of a lot easier to paint.
I dry brush the figure with a bit of white primer to help the details stand out.
I use a wet palette when I paint. I use a small Sta-Wet Handy Palette. You can buy the palette and refill sheets at Michael's or Hobby Lobby and any number of art stores. Make sure you a grab a 40-50% off coupon before you buy one - both of these stores regularly offer these coupons.
Here is what my palette looks like after a bit of painting the last couple of days:
The advantage of a wet palette is it is so easy to mix and keep your paint wet while you are painting. I can often come back to a paint after a couple of days and with a touch of water, re-use any mixes I have made.
==========================
FLESH
I paint inside - out on almost all of my figures. I nearly complete an area, but save the last highlights for near the end of the project. I like starting with flesh and I spend a bit of time on faces.
For this lass I am going to use Reaper Master Series (RMS) Burnt Orange, RMS Palomino Gold, RMS Mahogany, Vallejo Game Color (VGC) Charred Brown, and RMS Pure White.
You can see I use a very wet palette - here are the colors on a fresh palette sheet:
RMS Palomino Gold is my base. I added a bit of Mahogany and a bit of RMS Pure White. I measure in brush strokes on my palette so I can keep mixing until I like it. I lay down the base fairly heavy always using a lightly different mix for different areas. I'm doing a little mixing of various shades with almost every brushstroke. I really like the variations in skin tones this gives. It's a real mess when I start:
I keep working the base and start using thinner paint to work up some high lights. I also threw some red down on the palette to work into the flesh color for the cheeks and lips.
I blacked in the eyes and I will come back to finish those up when I do final highlights. For my purposes, the face is largely done except for some highlights.
==========================
NEXT TIME
Part Two will start with the hair and start with the clothes.
If you have any questions or suggestions as I go along please fire away!
Step-by-step
PART ONE
==========================
As promised here is a step-by-step on how I approach painting. Even after all of these years I'm still learning, but maybe you can pick up something you want to try.
I selected this miniature because it is something I have been meaning to paint for some time. Also, as many of you have picked up the Reaper Bones Kickstarter - it is one of the townsfolk sculpts included in your package.
Prior to painting I decide what level of paint job I am going to give a figure. For this figure, I am going for high tabletop standard. Far superior to any pre-paint you could purchase, but easily accomplished in an evening's work. It will take me longer because I am going step-by-step. Remember, those show quality miniatures take hours and hours - for example Alexi Z. takes around 30 hours per miniature. We don't want to put in that kind of time - we want to play with our minis!
I will cover some speed painting techniques later this year and some other short-cuts, but this figure's step-by-step will give you a base sense of how I paint.
==========================
PREPARATION
This is a metal miniature, so keep in mind your bones will be slightly different.
I quickly scrape and file down mold lines, etc. I cut away the broccoli base and remount the figure. For this model I created
some boards out of greenstuff that will represent the floor of a tavern when I'm done. If you were working for showpiece quality you would take much longer with this process - including using some miliputty paste to fill in flaws on the figure.
I wash the figure with an old toothbrush and a bit of soap.
I prime it black with dupli-color sandable primer. You can pick it up at any auto parts store.
I mount the figure on a large cork using double sided poster mount tape. This is the last time my hands will touch the actual miniature until I am done painting. Your hands and skin oil can do a lot of damage to your paint. That's why you should consider mounting your figures. Plus, it's a heck of a lot easier to paint.
I dry brush the figure with a bit of white primer to help the details stand out.
I use a wet palette when I paint. I use a small Sta-Wet Handy Palette. You can buy the palette and refill sheets at Michael's or Hobby Lobby and any number of art stores. Make sure you a grab a 40-50% off coupon before you buy one - both of these stores regularly offer these coupons.
Here is what my palette looks like after a bit of painting the last couple of days:
The advantage of a wet palette is it is so easy to mix and keep your paint wet while you are painting. I can often come back to a paint after a couple of days and with a touch of water, re-use any mixes I have made.
==========================
FLESH
I paint inside - out on almost all of my figures. I nearly complete an area, but save the last highlights for near the end of the project. I like starting with flesh and I spend a bit of time on faces.
For this lass I am going to use Reaper Master Series (RMS) Burnt Orange, RMS Palomino Gold, RMS Mahogany, Vallejo Game Color (VGC) Charred Brown, and RMS Pure White.
You can see I use a very wet palette - here are the colors on a fresh palette sheet:
RMS Palomino Gold is my base. I added a bit of Mahogany and a bit of RMS Pure White. I measure in brush strokes on my palette so I can keep mixing until I like it. I lay down the base fairly heavy always using a lightly different mix for different areas. I'm doing a little mixing of various shades with almost every brushstroke. I really like the variations in skin tones this gives. It's a real mess when I start:
I keep working the base and start using thinner paint to work up some high lights. I also threw some red down on the palette to work into the flesh color for the cheeks and lips.
I blacked in the eyes and I will come back to finish those up when I do final highlights. For my purposes, the face is largely done except for some highlights.
==========================
NEXT TIME
Part Two will start with the hair and start with the clothes.
If you have any questions or suggestions as I go along please fire away!
Last edited:
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