pogre's model and figure thread

[pogre]

Reaper Townsfolk Bar Maid
Step-by-step
PART TWO
==========================
A couple of quick reflections:
1. Taking pictures really slows me down; and
2. Creating close-ups of every step is very humbling in revealing every error. I probably should do it more often.

==========================

HAIR
I painted the hair a base of RMS Mahogany Brown with a touch of VGC Charred Brown.

Next, I created a wash using RMS Russet Brown with about one-third VGC Charred Brown.

I highlighted the hair with RMS Oiled Leather + RMS Palomino Gold + VGC Cobra Leather + VGC Off White.

A wash of Mahogany Brown went over this. I went back and added a touch of VGC Off White to my highlight mix. A wash of Mahogany Brown followed. I continued this process of highlighting followed by a wash until I took the highest highlights almost all the way up to pure VGC Off White.

==========================

DRESS
The dress received a base of RMS Olive Green.

The recessed areas of the dress received a wash of RMS Olive Green + a touch of RMS Russet Brown.

The same shadow mix was used as a straight paint (not a wash) and placed into the deepest recesses.

RMS Olive Green was reapplied to neaten the figure up.

VGC Off-White was added to the mix to create a lighter color and applied to highlights.

More VGC Off-White was added to the mix to go to the lightest highlights.

This is where I left the dress, but looking at the pictures I will probably add some Olive Green washes to tone down the harshest highlights.


==========================
NEXT TIME
Part Three will finish with the clothes and start getting into details.

If you have any questions or suggestions as I go along please fire away!

 

[beill]

Some questions for you from those that are interested in doing something similar.

How long did it take to assemble and paint?

Overall, how hard was it to build?

How many molds did it require? Which ones?

 

[pogre]

Some questions for you from those that are interested in doing something similar.

How long did it take to assemble and paint?

Overall, how hard was it to build?

How many molds did it require? Which ones?

[MENTION=6704473]beill[/MENTION] - O.K. - I think you are talking about one of my Hirst Arts projects, not the step-by-step miniatures painting I have put up in the last couple of posts. Let me know which Hirst Arts project you are interested in (post # would be fine) and I can give you more info.

 

[pogre]

Reaper Townsfolk Bar Maid
Step-by-step
PART THREE
==========================
A quick reflection: I'm sorry about not giving exact portions on my mixes. I just don't paint that way. I grab some color with my brush and mix as I go. I just mix paint until I like the color.
Let's dive back in on this figure.

==========================

UNDER CORSET
I painted this piece a little differently. I started with the darkest color and worked my way up to highlights.
I started with RMS Ruddy Leather.

This was highlighted with RMS Oiled Leather.

I added some off-white to the mix and continued to highlight the leather.

A couple of notes on leather - although I did this leather piece with traditional layers there are a couple of speed painting methods that give wonderful results:
1. Paint a base of orange and cover this with a brown + orange + mixed ink with a touch of white glue.
2. Paint a base of fairly dark leather, like RMS Russet Brown + VGC Charred Brown. Create a thin wash of light brown + orange ink. This is a reverse wash where you actually push the ink up to the highlights. It creates a really interesting effect.
I'll try to include some pictures with one or both of these techniques in the future.

==========================

APRON
Similar to the leather under corset, I started with the darkest color and layered up to highlights.
The base color for the apron was mostly VGC Khaki + some VGC Off White.

Highlight layers were built up by adding VGC Off White to the mix.

==========================
NEXT TIME
You may have noticed somewhere along the process I painted the interior of the dark eye sockets white. Not sure when I did that - probably just grabbed some off-white from the palette when I was working on the apron.
Next time we'll do the beer mugs and the tavern floor.

If you have any questions or suggestions as I go along please fire away!

 

[pogre]

Reaper Townsfolk Bar Maid
Step-by-step
PART FOUR
==========================

MUGS
The mugs were painted with a base of VGC Gunmetal Metal highlighted with VGC chainmail. The suds were painted with VGC off-white with a touch VGC khaki and highlighted with RMS pure white.

==========================

THE FLOOR
I based the floor in RMS leather

I then washed it with Games Workshop Devlan Mud.

I created grain in the wood first with highlight lines painted with the base mixed with white and then created grooves painting the same color darkened with VGC Charred Brown

==========================

SKIN TOUCH-UP
I went back to the face and smoothed the skin highlights a bit and dotted the eyes. The eyes are a little crooked, but oh well, it adds to our maids charm!

You will notice I did a couple of washes with the original green on the dress to tone down the highlights.

==========================

CONCLUSION
The miniature is pretty much done. I'm pleased withy the effort and it only took a couple of hours of effort. I hope you found something helpful. I'll be doing more step-by-steps in the future with some of the Reaper Bones. Stay tuned!

I'll post complete pictures of the maid with some other completed miniatures in the near future.

 

[dogoftheunderworld]

Thanks for the step-by-step Pogre, it's always interesting to see the different paint steps.

Also, congrats on your 100 mini year! Work has been a bear this past year, but I've got my Bones coming in March, so I hope to get back to it!

(Must spread XP around...)

 

[pogre]

Thanks Dog!

I think part of what helped me was forcing myself to paint at least 20 minutes a day, even in my busiest, toughest time of the year. If I managed to get one figure done every other week or so I was pleased. Since I was painting every day it made it less difficult to jump in with a deeper time commitment to painting when work eased up.

I am cranking on some speed painting right now to get ready for a con next weekend. They won't be pretty, but I'll get 'em done! I'll post pictures of their glorious sloppiness when they're done.

I stopped taking my really decent paint jobs to cons for the most part a few years ago. I love having lots of new people play in my games, but they just are not aware of the effort that goes into painting some figures. I don't think they are being purposefully disrespectful at all, but they just are not careful with models.

That's a long way of saying if you play in one of my con games - I don't apologize for the terrain, but the figs will probably be plastic and the paint jobs will not inspire you.

 

[pogre]

I am way behind on posting some painted minis. I also have some pictures from our local gaming convention: Winter War. Here is a local news story about Winter War:

http://www.wicd15.com/news/top-stories/stories/wicd_vid_6439.shtml

You can see my Dungeon Lord game in the lead off picture and also at :13 - :21 of the video. I'm the guy standing and leaning over the table.

I'll try to get some more pics up here this weekend, including a shot or two of Frank Chadwick's massive Mars Needs Steam game.

 

[apprentice]

pogre,
i found this thread after googling for "Hirstarts sewer". glad i found it and i really appreciate your work.
are you planning on doing any more sewer tiles?
i'm facinated by the Ptolus campaign setting and am currently getting setup as a DM for a new game.
i believe i'll be starting it in the sewers.
i currently own most of the Hirstarts Fieldstone molds, and would appreciate any help you could offer on painting and water effects, etc.
thanks
apprentice.

 

[pogre]

pogre,
i found this thread after googling for "Hirstarts sewer". glad i found it and i really appreciate your work.
are you planning on doing any more sewer tiles?
i'm facinated by the Ptolus campaign setting and am currently getting setup as a DM for a new game.
i believe i'll be starting it in the sewers.
i currently own most of the Hirstarts Fieldstone molds, and would appreciate any help you could offer on painting and water effects, etc.
thanks
apprentice.

The water in my sewer tiles were undercoated with paint the color I wanted the water to be and then I "painted" over it with two-part clear epoxy.

Painting the stone work:
Undercoat black
Paint dark gray
Dry brush over gray with light yellow-ochre
Create a dark greay wash and paint the lines between the stones
Mix gray, light yellow ochre, and a touch of white. Very lightly dry brush this over the edges.
Where water comes close to the stones work paint over is with a coat of gloss after you matte spray the piece.

If you have other questions let me know.

 

[pogre]

A decent-sized update of the few figures I've managed to paint in the last couple of months.

First up is a paladin character I painted for my campaign that I attempted to use NMM on:

The bar wench I did the step-by-step on up thread:

Another bar wench:

The burly barkeep:

A Reaper Stone Giant for my Rise of the Runelords campaign:

A close up of the slate I made for the base:

 

[pogre]

Yet another bar wench:

A Reaper Anti-Palidin:

Rise of the Runelords High Lady Athroxis found on page 294 of the Anniversary Edition:

Rise of the Runelords Viorian Dekanti found on page 349 of the Anniversary Edition:

Sorry the pictures are a bit dark. Need to adjust my lighting set-up.

These last two figures finally finish my Rise of the Runelords Reaper project. I have painted every miniature Reaper offers related to the campaign. These last two were a bit rushed, but I am happy to get done. Later, I will post a picture of all the Rise of the Runelords miniatures together.

 

[pogre]

This week I have been working on more scenery than miniatures. Here is a fireplace I made to go with my Dwarven Forge Master Maze from some of the new Hirst Arts molds.

I have been meaning to make a bunch of extra floor cavern pieces and finally got around to it:

Here they are put together:

 

[pogre]

Some friends and I are working on a miniatures scenario:

The game is set in the Appalachians in West Virginia in 1938. A group of aliens have come to earth to abduct test subjects. A group of hillpeople are cooking up some whiskey in an illegal still. Some angry coal miners are emerging from the dark depths. The U.S. Army has sent out recon missions to the area. G-Men have come to the area due to strange activity. To top it all off, a zombie plague has hit the area and the swarming brain eaters are crawling through the hills!

My assignment was a West Virginia coal mine entrance, the miners, and the horde of zombies. I got the mine entrance done - here it is more or less step-by-step:

Working on the miners and zombie horde now.

 

[Tamlyn]

Wow!

 

[teitan]

Hey that loos like home! I'm from Point Pleasant, WV. LOL

 

[Olaf the Stout]

Awesome job Pogre. Looks fantastic.

Olaf the Stout

 

[pogre]

Mierce Miniatures Manticore

I got this massive miniature from my in-laws for Christmas. When they bought it they called my wife and asked, "Are you sure this is what he wants?" She reassured them that this is indeed what her odd husband wanted.

This behemoth is Ungefelic a legendary manticore. It is a beautiful sculpt and a lot of fun to paint. I hope your enjoy the pics:

Lots of pics - hard to get this big boy in focus in my normal set-up!

I'll try to post a picture of this monster next to a man-sized 28 in the near future. He is massive!

Miniature #1 for 2014. I am shooting for at least 200 miniatures painted this year. My sons and I are enjoying Warhammer Fantasy Battle - so I have plenty to paint!

 

[pogre]

Avatar of War Orc Shaman

Not great photos, but here is an orc shaman I recently finished:

2014 Miniatures count = 2

 

[Scorpio616]

I'll try to post a picture of this monster next to a man-sized 28 in the near future. He is massive!

For 50 pounds, he better be! Is that a 100mm x 50mm base? And what did you use for water effects?